Friday, February 6, 2015

Bishop

Hey cuties! Sorry I haven't posted in so long! Last rest day I was too antsy to sit still and write a blog. So now I have quite a bit to catch y'all up on!

Wednesday it was still too wet to climb in Red Rocks and we were forced to take another rest day. After sitting at Starbuck's for awhile, we hiked Kraft Mountain which was a great time! We hiked up the east side ridge and hiked off the west side.

Thursday, Aaron and I climbed Birdland (5.7+, 5 pitches). It was my duty to direct us to the base of the climb (he's teaching me all sorts of skills!) and since he already did this route, he could correct me if needed. Anyways, we got the climb and racked up. I lead the first pitch and felt pretty good about gear placement. I started leading the second pitch, got scared at one point, got lowered, and Aaron lead that pitch. I still didn't like that section toproping. Aaron lead the third pitch. The fourth pitch was all me. It started with a 20ish foot runout traverse section. I finally got some pro in and kept on going. The route was kind of hard to follow (Aaron warned me I may be getting off route at one point while kind of running it out aha), but I found the crack about 10 feet up. Closer to the top of the pitch I somehow managed to get myself in a spot without good gear placement so I ran it out a bit again. I placed a sketchy cam as a mental piece and then placed a better cam a few feet up and shot straight for the anchor. Not really my proudest lead but I'm fairly confident that the cam above the sketchy cam would have caught me if I fell. Anyways, we rappelled down to find that some goat animal ate part of our lunch. We were hungry.
View from our campsite in Bishop
This is why i love climbing. You get views like this at sunset.
 Friday was more rain so we left for Bishop. No climbing :(  Saturday we went to the Buttermilks and I learned the definition of a highball. I met Aaron and Blair's friend Ian. Aaron worked Evilution (V10). I took the morning off and warmed up later. I tried a V4 cave problem but it was really reachy and I struggled. We then went over to the Iron Man boulder and I worked Iron Man (V4). After a few burns my finger I injured started hurting again so I decided to stop. Ian, Blair, and Aaron were working this V9 dyno on the boulder and I got a few cool pics!
Iron Man (V4). When the tongue is out, you know I have my send face on.
Ian sticking the dyno
Sunday we went to the Happies and I met Ian's girlfriend, Erin. Also Alex and Nathan came up for the weekend to climb. We warmed up on some V1 and VB highballs and I attempted the V1 Heavenly Path but the height scared me on the committing move to the slab and I downclimbed it. We went over to a different boulder and I played around on two V3s but wasn't able to make it much past the first few moves. Aaron sent Acid Wash (V10) and a V7 variation of Acid Wash. It was really fun watching all the guys work the problems because they all had different beta for their body type. I actually can learn a lot from watching them! Then we went over to the Solarium and I worked that problem (V4, stiffish?)
Dialing in the beta for Solarium
Monday we rested. Blair and I did an afternoon session and Aaron continued to rest. We went back to my project and I dialed the beta for the lower moves and got a high point. I have some pictures to prove I was climbing! We also went back to Blair's project, the V7 variation of Acid Wash. Tuesday was back to the Buttermilks. Aaron and Blair worked Evilution again and Aaron made some great progress! I took a rest for the morning. We met up with Sam and Steph (a very sweet couple that is near our age) at the Sads for an afternoon session. Little did we know there was a top-secret parking spot that made for a much shorter approach. Sam, Aaron, and Blair worked on Beef Cake (V10) and Sam worked Beefy Gecko (V11). WARNING: I am about to shamelessly build myself up. I was able to pull on and make the first move on the problem! I could get to the toe-hook but didn't get it to stay. So yes, shameless.
A 5.9ish arete warmup. Classic highball on the Grandma Peabody
And the downclimb. Aaron is in blue and Sam in red.
Wednesday, Aaron and I went to Owen's River Gorge for some sport climbing. We had a very interesting approach (got great glutes and quads now). Aaron hung the draws on a 5.8 and I started to lead it. Unfortunately, only a few bolts up my tendon started hurting (forgot to tape it) so I had him take and shake it out. Then I went for the next bolt and I felt it pop :(  Do not fear! Aaron dummied my finger so I couldn't use it and I could continue climbing! I stuck to top roping so I could really focus my mental energy on being gentle on my fingers as to not hurt them anymore. I climbed another 9, 8, and 7 which were all super fun. I cannot wait to go back when my finger is feeling better so I can lead all the sweet looking 10s and maybe 11s! We went to the Sads to go pick up Blair which actually turned into them working Beef Cake again. Aaron sent it after a few burns. My man is strong :)

Thursday was Sam's birthday so him and Steph and a bunch of their friends went to the Druids and invited us. Unfortunately I had a terrible migraine so I didn't really climb for awhile. Eventually, I took a crashpad and wandered around and climbed a bunch of super easy things with my dummied finger alone (noises were not good for the migraine). It started feeling better and the crew went over to the Thunder Wall which had a 3, 4, 6, and 8+ problems. I pulled onto the 3 (Thunder) and struggled to find beta which wouldn't stress my tendon. Unable to, I gave up before hurting my finger too bad. Migraine kicked in extra high gear so we headed home for the night. Still had a great time seeing Steph and Sam and the crew!
Aaron sticking a move on Evilution
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Friday, today, we did a morning/early afternoon session at the Happies again. I warmed up a bit and started working Solarium again. A big group stopped by so we had tons of pads. Aaron and Blair were sending The Hulk (V6) on a nearby boulder. Me and a bunch of other ladies took turns giving the Solarium burns. I dialed in better foot beta which is very helpful for the launch to the top. On one of my first burns, I stuck the lip (not the ticked spot haha) but one of my feet blew and I came off. Let me tell you, that hold felt good! Well, good enough to get to the ticked jug. Psych was through the roof. A bunch of the other ladies were getting to the same spot and we were determined to stick it. I got Aaron to come over and spot me/pump me up. I eased through the bottom part and made a big move to the pocket. I turned the pocket into an undercling and got the thumb catch. I got my feet situated and launched for the hold. My finger tips grazed the hold but I wasn't able to grab it. It was a very sad moment but at least I know I can get there. Now I just have to stick in and make the bump to the jug and I'll send my problem! Next time. Oh, by the way, it was super windy and we had a mini-dust storm which kind of threw our stuff all around the campsite but we recovered everything so it's all good.

Have some pictures. I'll rest my finger. Aaron is going to get this knot out of my back (whether he knows it yet or not). You are going to have sweaty palms. Bye loves!
Panorama view from atop a climb at the Happies
Only one more move to the lip. So close!
Sunset behind the Grandma and Grandpa Peabodies. This picture makes them look small but they are giant boulders.

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