#dirtbag

Hello all my beautiful people! I hope y'all aren't too cold! I heard Raleigh got a dose of cold and snow as well as the upper midwest! I would laugh (actually, I did, right Dane?) but... it snowed in Bishop too! Sunburn, windburn, snow, wind, rain, what else could we have got besides an earthquake? Anyways, it has been a wonderful week or so since I last wrote. Unfortunately, it did not involve more delicious baked goodies but it had something even better. I'll leave y'all hanging and see if you can find it below :)

snowy Sierra

 So last Tuesday (17), we were resting in the morning and went to the Happies in the afternoon. As according to protocol, we went to Acid Wash so my men could work on their projects. Aaron sent Acid Wash Right (V10?) and Blair worked out the crux moves on Acid Wash. After they tired themselves out and the sun stopped scorching the boulders, we headed on over to Solarium so I could work my project. After multiple burns, I was able to high point and got my fingertips just below the jug! I left feeling tired but accomplished.

Wednesday, oh geez. It's hard to remember back that far and what we did. I think I have it jotted down somewhere, hold on. Ah yes! Today was a great day for everyone. We went to the Buttermilks so we could attack some other projects. Aaron sent Soul Slinger (V9) after a few burns right away in the morning! Then we went over to Junior Achievement (V8) so I could pull on and see if I could work the moves. As it turns out, I had a very difficult time pulling on. Aaron gave me a few power spots/boosts for the first move. I still had a really hard time but I didn't stop trying until I split my fingertip open :( Good thing Aaron is a pro with tape and did something to it so I could keep climbing which is difficult when you cannot feel the rock with one of your fingers. Mom and Dad, yes it sounds silly, but you put tape on a finger and touch a rock and then you tell me if I'm being dramatic or not. Then we went over to the cave area and a bunch of people were working various problems. Blair did a problem that involved crawling through a hole. Aaron sent Moon Raker (V9) which I took some cool pictures. Okay, totally going to go off on a tangent here. I should start a photography company. Jason, help me out brother! It's going to be called 'Hope Photography' and my motto 'making climbers look awesome' Sounds good right? I only say this because there are 50x more photos of my friends climbing than me even though I'm climbing nearly as much as them. I promise you I'm also climbing on this trip despite what the pictures may or may not show :)  Anyways, near dusk we went over to Get Carter Boulder and we all worked Seven Spanish Angels (V6). It was a beautiful looking problem and tons of fun to work but the only person to send was Aaron. You just wait, one of these days I will catch up to him. 

Blair on Soul Slinger

Aaron on Moon Raker 

Final moves of Moon Raker

Thursday, we went to the Ice Caves with our new friend Zach. As it turns out, we had lost the back license plate somewhere along the line. Aaron got close to sending Beefy Gecko (V11). Sam and Steph showed up and Sam worked the problem for awhile too. Since I don't climb V11, I was more than happy chilling with friends and watching them climb. In the afternoon, we went over to the Happies again. I convinced Aaron to work Serengeti (V5) with me. Lana and Trevor were there and Lana sent it! She was super excited she finally got her project. That fueled my excitement for the climb. Although it wasn't a send for me, working out the moves and trying different beta was super fun.

Friday was a rest day. Saturday we went back to the Happies and everyone worked various things. I got bored at one point and took a walk around the canyon. Eventually I ended up at the Solarium where a group of people were working the problem. Naturally I stopped and talked to them. After talking beta for awhile, I got psyched and shoved my feet into my Muiras. I stuck both hands into my dwindling supply of chalk and did my routine of chalking up. Roll the chalk ball around in the loose chalk, squeeze the chalk ball with each hand, and brush my palms 3 times against each other and finally interlace my fingers like I'm holding my own hands. The people there happily let me climb over their pads and gave me a spot as I climbed. I stuck my hands into the starting huecos and got my left foot on. I pulled onto the climb, flagged my right foot, moved my right hand to a small crimp, got my right foot on next to my left and moved my left hand to a nearby crimp. I moved my right foot over to a small foothold and grabbed another crimp with my right hand and made sure my middle finger was on the indent in the crimp for maximum contact. Then I moved my left foot up to get better balance. I eyed up the pocket I needed to stick my left hand with and effortlessly it went exactly where I wanted it to. I got a right foot in a good dish and turned my right hip into the wall and stood up tall and stretched for the pocket pinch. I quick switched my left hand undercling into a small pocket pinch and brought my feet up high to the ticked holds. I focused onto the jug that I needed to launch myself to but told myself it was further away than it really was. Next thing I knew, my right hand was latched onto the hold and I was swinging through the air and held on with everything I had in me. Then I proceeded to do a very ungraceful top-out (I couldn't remember where my feet were and all I was thinking was "don't let go, don't let go, don't let go"). Basically, I flung my leg over the top of the boulder and rolled over onto it. Doesn't matter, I sent my project.

And I was laughing because Raleigh got snow... I learned my lesson

Sunday was a rest day because of snow and rain. Monday, we went to the Buttermilks which looked like the pictures below. Nonetheless, we didn't climb there. I dropped Blair and Aaron off at the Happies (yes, Aaron let me drive his truck (he was scared to let his prize possession go (although my work trucks dwarfed his!))) and I went to shower. I met them there later in the afternoon and pulled onto Serengeti and Carrot Top. Aaron, Blair, and Sam were working Sucker Punch (V5) which looked awesome. Oh, and I found the lost license plate. What are the odds? Tuesday, we packed up camp, drove through Death Valley (yay for 100 feet below sea level!) on our way to Red Rocks.

Death Valley

Wednesday, we started off the day with a 5 mile (roundtrip) 2000 ft gain hike on Turtlehead Peak. There was some snow close to the top and it was beautiful! After the hike, we headed over to the Tsunami boulder so I could work Amazing Grace and the men could work Red Wave (V10). Three weeks of climbing outside can do wonders to your strength! The first move that seemed so difficult back then was easy peasy this time. I ironed out beta and am amped to go back and finish it off. Aaron and Blair worked the dyno Red Wave and Aaron sent it! All in all, a great first day back in Red Rocks.

Aaron sticking the dyno!

Thursday, Aaron and I dropped Blair off at Kraft Daycare and headed on over to Rose Tower. After a lovely hike in, we stashed our bags, geared up, and found our way to the base of Olive Oil (5 pitches, 5.7). We were planning on swinging leads but we found out that every pitch required the climber to build an anchor (which I have done only once with my feet firmly on the ground). We decided in was in our best interest to let Aaron lead all the pitches and we would go over anchor building more thoroughly and let me practice a few times before I lead a pitch where I had to build an anchor and belay him up. We got stuck behind two groups, the first of which was really slow. It was a beautiful day so we took our time and enjoyed the climbing and views. We linked the 2nd and 3rd pitches so Aaron had to be more conscious of gear placements. To keep my mental game up to par, I pretended I was leading so I could think of what gear I wanted to place wear while also keeping in mind how much further I had to climb and what gear I would have left to place. The last pitch was hands down my favorite. It started out with a long traverse out right and then up a chimney. The climbing was varied and kept you thinking the whole time. I managed to wiggle up the chimney without taking off the pack. I totally wedged myself into the crack at one point so I could take both hands off and rest/take out a piece of gear. Then at one point, I tested how far my wingspan could actually reach (which is surprisingly far for being 5'4"). We reached the summit, took some pictures, ate some food, and did the descent which was MUCH MUCH MUCH better than the Mescalito descent. This is one that I felt totally comfortable on and never saw my life flash before my eyes. We found Blair working Angel Dyno (V7) and headed back to camp.

Summit of Rose Tower!

Friday was another good day of bouldering. We started off at the Monkey Bar Boulder. Blair worked a V7 and I worked a V6. I didn't make it too far off the ground my sure gave my shoulders a workout. Aaron attempted Atomic Wedgie (V10). Then we headed over to The Muffler (V4) so I could work out the beta. I got the first few moves dialed and worked the crux move a few times and stuck it once for a very short second before I fell. Definitely need to go back and just do it. Then we headed over to Stand and Deliver (V10) so Aaron could work on it. Lo and behold that was a fantastic idea. We were there for awhile when the one and only ADAM ONDRA appeared. You know, only one of the best climbers in the world. Yeah, no big deal. So naturally we openly stared and watched him easily flash a V12. Hmm, just when I thought I was getting good... 

Today, Saturday the 28 of February, we are kissing the end of the month goodbye with a rest day. We did a lot of errands, I bought a 48L pack, and now am soaking  up the internet at Starbucks. I even got to Skype with Anna for a short time :) Today is good.