Friday, March 20, 2015

Dream of Dreams

Hey y'all! I hope all is well. So much has happened since the last time I had internet access. It starts with shredding my fingertips at Joshua Tree and ends with jamming my feet and fingers into granite cracks at Yosemite. Sounds pretty boring, eh? Well, please allow me to indulge myself as I ramble on and on about how amazing rock climbing is and how much fun I'm having.

Alright, last Monday the 9th of March, Aaron and I did a few single-pitched trad routes at Indian Creek. The approach involved us actually getting out of the tent but not much further. We did two 5.10s, I lead some unknown route so I could practice building anchors, and Aaron lead another 5.9+. It was HOT. So we didn't really climb all that much but it was still fun nonetheless. Tuesday, I took a rest day, and the men went bouldering. They worked on Streetcar Named Desire (V6/7) which is this sweet looking smear/stem problem. Then we went over to Gunsmoke Traverse which has to be the longest traverse I've ever seen in my life. 
Commitment (5.9)
On Wednesday, we left for the climber's dreamland: YOSEMITE! We stocked up on food and managed to get a campsite at Camp 4!! Yeah, we are that cool.

Thursday, Aaron and I went to the Five Open Books Area. We climbed Munginella (5.6) in 2 pitches and Commitment (5.9) in 3 pitches. I got a crash course in crack climbing. As much as my ankles and fingers protested at first, they came around at let me jam them into the crack. I even did a fist jam (that didn't even make me want to cry). Commitment had one "committing" move to it and was pretty fun. I also learned that following Aaron proves difficult. He is standing on good feet and places gear BUT when I'm trying to take out the gear, I'm not on those good feet because I'm shorter than him. That's my only complaint. Friday, we did The Caverns (5.8) in 3 pitches. We both agreed it was fun but not as fun as the two lines we did the day before. I also managed to get a free shower :)

Saturday, I was in for a treat. Aaron wanted to lead something hard so I had the honor of following him up a 5.10c crack. He had a blast, I didn't have as big of a blast as he did. I'm barely a 5.7 crack climber so imagine me on a 5.10c crack. Difficult. We did Surprise! at the Five Open Books Area. It was pretty fun after I struggled through the first pitch.
Upper Yosemite and Lower Yosemite Falls
Sunday, Aaron and I had a big, big day. We got up early to go tick off one of the "50 Classics of North America" Royal Arches (5.7 A0). We had 15 pitches to conquer. It was pretty easy climbing most of the time so we cruised up most of the pitches and made good timing. It was a varied route and loads of fun! We rappelled the route and made it back to the truck 9.5 hours after we departed. We took precisely 1 photo the whole time.

Monday, we rested. Tuesday, we all went bouldering. We started at Midnight Lightning (V8). Aaron got super close to sending and Blair was making progress. I was psyched I was able to get established on the starting holds and both feet off the ground! Then I tried the most awkward and difficult V0+ ever. Then I worked on Bear Hug Arete (V4). It is a compression problem with a giant move to a jug. Let's just say the big move is shutting. me. down. 
Made it to the top of Royal Arches! I have never been so excited to take climbing shoes off. Amazing climb.
Wednesday, Aaron and I went to the Manure Pile Buttress and did the route: After Six (5.7). I lead the 3rd pitch which is a "5.6" chimney. There was one point I got terrified because there was a kind-of hard move and the wind picked up out of nowhere and felt like it was trying to rip me off the wall. Aaron cheered me on and I managed to pull through and finish out the pitch. All-in-all, it was an awesome route and we cruised up it.
Aaron on the ultra-classic Midnight Lightning right next to Camp 4!
Thursday, Aaron and I braved the approach to Regular Route (5.9). My ankle started acting up and climbing hurt so bad. The second pitch was definitely the crux with a traverse. Let's just say I made the traverse into a swing and scared myself. Also, my sneezes echoed really well. The third pitch was easily my favorite. There was an 'airy step across' and the rest of the pitch was easy-going. The fourth pitch was Aaron's favorite which had a variation of overhanging jugs and then up to the summit. We had lunch of there, soaked in the view, and then rappelled back down. As we were hiking back to the truck, we ran into Blair so we picked him up and went back to camp.

As you may very well guess, it is Friday and a rest day. So enjoy the photos and I'll write again as soon as I can!

The sun makes photos difficult but I wanted El Cap in the background. Aaron and I are on top of Higher Cathedral Spire via the Regular Route. I know most of my family hasn't met Aaron and then I go and disappear into the wilderness on a 2.5 month climbing trip with him and our friend Blair. I promise he is a good guy and holds the rope when I'm climbing!

Sunday, March 8, 2015

Rain, Rain, Go Away

Well hello there. Guess where I am? Joshua Tree! We made the drive over today after we got revenge at Red Rocks. We had a lot of rainy days that kind of ruined our plans so we stayed a little longer than planned but I still convinced the men to go to J Tree for a few days. Anyways, do you want the short or long story? Good, long version it is.

So last Saturday, I posted on a rest day. Sunday turned out to be another rest day for me, unfortunately. We first went to the Monkey Bar boulder so Blair could work his project. He made some awesome progress. A Canadian couple joined us at the boulder and the guy also worked the problem. I pulled onto a V6 and putzed around for awhile but decided to save it for my project. After awhile, we went over to Stake Your Claim V10 (not Stand and Deliver like I said before) so Aaron could work his project. We felt a few raindrops but he persevered and ending up sending right before the rain picked up. Therefore, no projecting for Megan and we hung out it town for the rest of the day.
Mescalito peeking out from the storm clouds.
Monday was more rain.

Tuesday, we hiked Frenchman (3 miles roundtrip, approx. 2000 feet gain) in the morning and were awarded with a view of sprawling Las Vegas. We ran into some radio tower workers at the peak and discovered they get flown in and out via helicopter. I have to admit, I could have gone for a heli ride down but nope, it was one foot in front of the other. Then we drove into Arizona to hike to the Arizona Hot Springs. Well, we saw the storm clouds rolling in but decided to take the hike in anyways. Okay, go ahead, say it. Yes, it was stupid. It rained on us about halfway there so he had to go back to the truck. Do not worry folks. The Hoover Dam is a mere few miles away. We wandered around, took some pictures, crossed back and forth between timezones, and then headed back to Vegas. I have some rather cool pictures, if I may say so myself.
Last stretch of the hike on Frenchman
Wednesday, we went back to the hot springs because the rock was wet and we wanted to be good climbers and not break holds. This time we didn't get rained out. We had a beautiful hike in, got lost only a little, and then spent some time boiling in the hot springs. There were 3 tiers and the higher you went, the hotter they got. After hanging out there for awhile, we took the "adventurous" way out which wasn't that much more difficult than the hike in. Anyways, it was a good time, beautiful sights, and a great way to relax tired muscles. Then we went to BJ's for dinner.

Colorado River
Thursday, we made the drive out to Black Mountain so Aaron and Blair could work on their projects. Aaron worked the moves out on Atlas Shrug (V12) and Blair came super close to sending Fountainhead (V9). The creek was flowing which added to the ambiance. I did a lot of reading and getting psyched for my project. Early afternoon, we headed to Red Springs so I could get back on Amazing Grace. After working the problem for awhile, I found better foot beta and high-pointed. But still no send. That made me just a little aggravated but focused on the fact that I made positive progress. Caitlin joined us that evening - it's always nice to have another female around. (The testosterone can be a little much sometimes - but they are good at making fires).
I have never seen a sign that tells you what time zone you're in...
Hoover Dam
Friday, Aaron and I did Frogland (6 pitches, 5.8). Since it was a build-your-own-anchor, we decided to try and do it as fast as we could in preparation for Yosemite. From base to summit, it took around 4.5 hours which wasn't too bad. We were hoping for a little faster but we ran into some interesting sections that proved themselves to be a little wacky. In pitch 4, there was a roof where we supposedly were supposed to place gear high and traverse low which sucked up a lot of time and provided swing potential for both of us if we slipped. But we made it. And then my favorite (as Aaron can attest to) was the ending of pitch 5. There is this chimney-let's-turn-into-a-tunnel feature which doesn't seem that bad unless you have a pack on your back. I completely squished myself in there and then couldn't really move. After much wiggling around like a caterpillar, I made it out. And then the icing on the stupid cake was that the party below us caught up to us. Anyways, Aaron left to lead the last pitch and I chatted with the guy. They were from Canada, passed a group before they got to us, assisted with not getting the ropes tangled, got a nut out for me, and kept me entertained until I followed the last pitch. The walk-off was nice again but a little dicier than Olive Oil. To be honest, I think the walk-off for Frogland was much more fun but still liked the climbing of Olive Oil better. We made it back over to Kraft to meet up with Caitlin and Blair. I hopped on the Wave (V3) with Aaron and had fun working it. A Swedish couple (Emil and Amanda) joined us and we all worked multiple problems on the boulder. We invited them over for a fire and had a good night.
Frogland is pretty much in the center of the picture. It is the crack line to the right of the white triangle roof .
Saturday, Blair, Aaron, Emil, Amanda, and I went to the Tsunami boulder in the morning. My plan was to wrap up Amazing Grace, but plans change. I ironed out the moves and stuck the hold that kept shutting me down BUT my hand popped off the hold. Once again, I made positive progress. Looks like I'll have to get revenge next time. Amanda didn't climb because one of her fingers was bothering her. Emil crushed Amazing Grace and the Prayer. Then we headed over to Taurine (V9) which is this super cool dyno problem. Emil and Aaron sent with quick work and Blair came super duper close to a send. I worked on my pull-ups (which means I had some assistance). According to my lovely assistant, Aaron, I didn't really need much help. PROGRESS :)  Then we went over the the Split Boulder where Aaron and Blair did Plumber's Crack ("V" 5.9). We putzed around on some other problems but made it over to $500 and $600 (V9). I pulled onto $500 and managed a few of the moves before my shoulders couldn't make the moves anymore. Emil made fast work of the problem (must be a Swedish thing) and Blair came within inches of sending the problem. It was a really good day. Oh, and we stayed in a hotel. We slept on a real mattress and box spring. We took showers. We shaved. Whoa. Almost like a "normal" person. Weird.

Sunday, we went to breakfast at Denny's, played Dominion, went grocery shopping, and drove to J Tree where I am currently. I'm getting hungry. Therefore, I'm going to stop rambling and eat some popcorn. Until next time!
Colorado River behind the Hoover Dam
Love.