Friday, March 20, 2015

Dream of Dreams

Hey y'all! I hope all is well. So much has happened since the last time I had internet access. It starts with shredding my fingertips at Joshua Tree and ends with jamming my feet and fingers into granite cracks at Yosemite. Sounds pretty boring, eh? Well, please allow me to indulge myself as I ramble on and on about how amazing rock climbing is and how much fun I'm having.

Alright, last Monday the 9th of March, Aaron and I did a few single-pitched trad routes at Indian Creek. The approach involved us actually getting out of the tent but not much further. We did two 5.10s, I lead some unknown route so I could practice building anchors, and Aaron lead another 5.9+. It was HOT. So we didn't really climb all that much but it was still fun nonetheless. Tuesday, I took a rest day, and the men went bouldering. They worked on Streetcar Named Desire (V6/7) which is this sweet looking smear/stem problem. Then we went over to Gunsmoke Traverse which has to be the longest traverse I've ever seen in my life. 
Commitment (5.9)
On Wednesday, we left for the climber's dreamland: YOSEMITE! We stocked up on food and managed to get a campsite at Camp 4!! Yeah, we are that cool.

Thursday, Aaron and I went to the Five Open Books Area. We climbed Munginella (5.6) in 2 pitches and Commitment (5.9) in 3 pitches. I got a crash course in crack climbing. As much as my ankles and fingers protested at first, they came around at let me jam them into the crack. I even did a fist jam (that didn't even make me want to cry). Commitment had one "committing" move to it and was pretty fun. I also learned that following Aaron proves difficult. He is standing on good feet and places gear BUT when I'm trying to take out the gear, I'm not on those good feet because I'm shorter than him. That's my only complaint. Friday, we did The Caverns (5.8) in 3 pitches. We both agreed it was fun but not as fun as the two lines we did the day before. I also managed to get a free shower :)

Saturday, I was in for a treat. Aaron wanted to lead something hard so I had the honor of following him up a 5.10c crack. He had a blast, I didn't have as big of a blast as he did. I'm barely a 5.7 crack climber so imagine me on a 5.10c crack. Difficult. We did Surprise! at the Five Open Books Area. It was pretty fun after I struggled through the first pitch.
Upper Yosemite and Lower Yosemite Falls
Sunday, Aaron and I had a big, big day. We got up early to go tick off one of the "50 Classics of North America" Royal Arches (5.7 A0). We had 15 pitches to conquer. It was pretty easy climbing most of the time so we cruised up most of the pitches and made good timing. It was a varied route and loads of fun! We rappelled the route and made it back to the truck 9.5 hours after we departed. We took precisely 1 photo the whole time.

Monday, we rested. Tuesday, we all went bouldering. We started at Midnight Lightning (V8). Aaron got super close to sending and Blair was making progress. I was psyched I was able to get established on the starting holds and both feet off the ground! Then I tried the most awkward and difficult V0+ ever. Then I worked on Bear Hug Arete (V4). It is a compression problem with a giant move to a jug. Let's just say the big move is shutting. me. down. 
Made it to the top of Royal Arches! I have never been so excited to take climbing shoes off. Amazing climb.
Wednesday, Aaron and I went to the Manure Pile Buttress and did the route: After Six (5.7). I lead the 3rd pitch which is a "5.6" chimney. There was one point I got terrified because there was a kind-of hard move and the wind picked up out of nowhere and felt like it was trying to rip me off the wall. Aaron cheered me on and I managed to pull through and finish out the pitch. All-in-all, it was an awesome route and we cruised up it.
Aaron on the ultra-classic Midnight Lightning right next to Camp 4!
Thursday, Aaron and I braved the approach to Regular Route (5.9). My ankle started acting up and climbing hurt so bad. The second pitch was definitely the crux with a traverse. Let's just say I made the traverse into a swing and scared myself. Also, my sneezes echoed really well. The third pitch was easily my favorite. There was an 'airy step across' and the rest of the pitch was easy-going. The fourth pitch was Aaron's favorite which had a variation of overhanging jugs and then up to the summit. We had lunch of there, soaked in the view, and then rappelled back down. As we were hiking back to the truck, we ran into Blair so we picked him up and went back to camp.

As you may very well guess, it is Friday and a rest day. So enjoy the photos and I'll write again as soon as I can!

The sun makes photos difficult but I wanted El Cap in the background. Aaron and I are on top of Higher Cathedral Spire via the Regular Route. I know most of my family hasn't met Aaron and then I go and disappear into the wilderness on a 2.5 month climbing trip with him and our friend Blair. I promise he is a good guy and holds the rope when I'm climbing!

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