Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Everything but a Free Solo

Well hey there! Another rest day means this bloody knuckled lady has the opportunity to catch y'all up on her climbing adventure! So this adventure can start with...

So it has been 10 days since I've taken a shower. Patrick approved of my new lifestyle (probably because he doesn't get the honor to smell how wonderful Blair, Aaron, and I smell). It's okay, you're not missing much in that department! Thankfully, I got to take a shower last night, get most of the smoky scent out of my hair, shave my armpits (that hair is something else after 10 days, let me tell you), and realize that my tan was just dirt. Anyways, now to the more fun part: climbing stories.
So Friday, Aaron and I climbed Cat In The Hat (5.6, 7 pitches). After some bush-whacking, retying a rope backpack way too many times, getting stabbed by some holly-bush-esque plant one too many times, we made it to the bottom of the climb. I got the highest honor there possibly is: carry the pack up the pitches! The first pitch irritated me only because we had what felt like 400 pounds of water in the pack. The second pitch went better but then the straps started rubbing and I wasn't too psyched on that. The next three pitches went smoothly and were really enjoyable. Then came about 400 feet of fourth class scrambling. I spent a solid 7 minutes trying to get the rope untangled from one of those prickly-ass holly-bush-esque plants. Anyways, that pitch went fairly well and we made it to the bottom of the 7th pitch which was a chimney. After much struggle with the pack and removing gear, I decided to ditch the chimney and climb the face. Aaron and I had lunch on the summit. We were doing pretty good on time and started the descent. At first it wasn't so bad, but then came some (in my opinion) terrifying downclimbing which felt way harder than the stuff we ascended. I'm pretty sure the carins/zen stone/pile-of-stones-used-as-directions were pointing us in the hardest way down possible. There was one point I was ready to just sit and anchor to a tree and never come down. A panic attack, an almost death-sentence-down-climb (okay not really, but that's what it was in my head), and two unplanned rappels, we made it to the bottom. It was dusk and we hiked out in the dark. Poor Blair had gotten lost in the bouldering area but we found him starting the hike back to camp and we picked him up. Let's just say I don't really want to to do that again any time soon.
Meditation View
View from Tailpipe and Muffler
 Saturday was awesome! We all hiked to the Gateway boulders. Aaron and Blair worked Tailpipe (V9) and I projected Muffler (V4). Aaron send Tailpipe and I dialed in the beta for the bottom moves on muffler. Hopefully one of the two post a photo or two of me climbing so y'all actually believe me. After a solid session, we headed to their project ($500 V8). Aaron sent it and Blair looked super solid on it as well! I was on a nearby boulder which had two V3s (Butterfly Kiss and ??). I worked most of the moves on Butterfly Kiss but couldn't stitch it together. Next time.


Sunday, all three of us climbed Geronimo (5.6, 4 pitches). Aaron lead the pitches and Blair and I each climbed up after him. It was jugs upon jugs and had rappels much to my happiness. It was an enjoyable climb (although the desert wandering to the climb not so much). We set up rappels and I had the honor of going first and continually untangling the rope which got stuck on every chickenhead there was. I think I got more of a workout doing that than the climbing itself haha.

Monday, we went bouldering the Red Springs area. Blair sent his project (Monkey Wrench V7). Then we went up to Ultra Violet (V10). They worked the moves on it and I proudly hauled my butt a whole 4 inches off the ground! They kept working at it and I wandered off to go meditate. Then we hiked on over to the Tsunami boulder. I sent The Offering (V2) and worked the moves on Amazing Grace (V4) but didn't stick a big move to a crimp. Cough, cough: project. Blair and Aaron worked The Prayer (V5/6) and Aaron sent it and Blair is bound and determined to get it. So therefore, we must go back solely for my selfish purposes on getting Amazing Grace and for Blair to get The Prayer.
The Offering

Monday night it rained and today is a rest day. Feast your eyes on my posted photos :) I will be out abusing my tendons and skin again tomorrow! Oh, and Dane, still not jealous of you guys pulling on plastic :D

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