#dirtbag

Hello all my beautiful people! I hope y'all aren't too cold! I heard Raleigh got a dose of cold and snow as well as the upper midwest! I would laugh (actually, I did, right Dane?) but... it snowed in Bishop too! Sunburn, windburn, snow, wind, rain, what else could we have got besides an earthquake? Anyways, it has been a wonderful week or so since I last wrote. Unfortunately, it did not involve more delicious baked goodies but it had something even better. I'll leave y'all hanging and see if you can find it below :)

snowy Sierra

 So last Tuesday (17), we were resting in the morning and went to the Happies in the afternoon. As according to protocol, we went to Acid Wash so my men could work on their projects. Aaron sent Acid Wash Right (V10?) and Blair worked out the crux moves on Acid Wash. After they tired themselves out and the sun stopped scorching the boulders, we headed on over to Solarium so I could work my project. After multiple burns, I was able to high point and got my fingertips just below the jug! I left feeling tired but accomplished.

Wednesday, oh geez. It's hard to remember back that far and what we did. I think I have it jotted down somewhere, hold on. Ah yes! Today was a great day for everyone. We went to the Buttermilks so we could attack some other projects. Aaron sent Soul Slinger (V9) after a few burns right away in the morning! Then we went over to Junior Achievement (V8) so I could pull on and see if I could work the moves. As it turns out, I had a very difficult time pulling on. Aaron gave me a few power spots/boosts for the first move. I still had a really hard time but I didn't stop trying until I split my fingertip open :( Good thing Aaron is a pro with tape and did something to it so I could keep climbing which is difficult when you cannot feel the rock with one of your fingers. Mom and Dad, yes it sounds silly, but you put tape on a finger and touch a rock and then you tell me if I'm being dramatic or not. Then we went over to the cave area and a bunch of people were working various problems. Blair did a problem that involved crawling through a hole. Aaron sent Moon Raker (V9) which I took some cool pictures. Okay, totally going to go off on a tangent here. I should start a photography company. Jason, help me out brother! It's going to be called 'Hope Photography' and my motto 'making climbers look awesome' Sounds good right? I only say this because there are 50x more photos of my friends climbing than me even though I'm climbing nearly as much as them. I promise you I'm also climbing on this trip despite what the pictures may or may not show :)  Anyways, near dusk we went over to Get Carter Boulder and we all worked Seven Spanish Angels (V6). It was a beautiful looking problem and tons of fun to work but the only person to send was Aaron. You just wait, one of these days I will catch up to him. 

Blair on Soul Slinger

Aaron on Moon Raker 

Final moves of Moon Raker

Thursday, we went to the Ice Caves with our new friend Zach. As it turns out, we had lost the back license plate somewhere along the line. Aaron got close to sending Beefy Gecko (V11). Sam and Steph showed up and Sam worked the problem for awhile too. Since I don't climb V11, I was more than happy chilling with friends and watching them climb. In the afternoon, we went over to the Happies again. I convinced Aaron to work Serengeti (V5) with me. Lana and Trevor were there and Lana sent it! She was super excited she finally got her project. That fueled my excitement for the climb. Although it wasn't a send for me, working out the moves and trying different beta was super fun.

Friday was a rest day. Saturday we went back to the Happies and everyone worked various things. I got bored at one point and took a walk around the canyon. Eventually I ended up at the Solarium where a group of people were working the problem. Naturally I stopped and talked to them. After talking beta for awhile, I got psyched and shoved my feet into my Muiras. I stuck both hands into my dwindling supply of chalk and did my routine of chalking up. Roll the chalk ball around in the loose chalk, squeeze the chalk ball with each hand, and brush my palms 3 times against each other and finally interlace my fingers like I'm holding my own hands. The people there happily let me climb over their pads and gave me a spot as I climbed. I stuck my hands into the starting huecos and got my left foot on. I pulled onto the climb, flagged my right foot, moved my right hand to a small crimp, got my right foot on next to my left and moved my left hand to a nearby crimp. I moved my right foot over to a small foothold and grabbed another crimp with my right hand and made sure my middle finger was on the indent in the crimp for maximum contact. Then I moved my left foot up to get better balance. I eyed up the pocket I needed to stick my left hand with and effortlessly it went exactly where I wanted it to. I got a right foot in a good dish and turned my right hip into the wall and stood up tall and stretched for the pocket pinch. I quick switched my left hand undercling into a small pocket pinch and brought my feet up high to the ticked holds. I focused onto the jug that I needed to launch myself to but told myself it was further away than it really was. Next thing I knew, my right hand was latched onto the hold and I was swinging through the air and held on with everything I had in me. Then I proceeded to do a very ungraceful top-out (I couldn't remember where my feet were and all I was thinking was "don't let go, don't let go, don't let go"). Basically, I flung my leg over the top of the boulder and rolled over onto it. Doesn't matter, I sent my project.

And I was laughing because Raleigh got snow... I learned my lesson

Sunday was a rest day because of snow and rain. Monday, we went to the Buttermilks which looked like the pictures below. Nonetheless, we didn't climb there. I dropped Blair and Aaron off at the Happies (yes, Aaron let me drive his truck (he was scared to let his prize possession go (although my work trucks dwarfed his!))) and I went to shower. I met them there later in the afternoon and pulled onto Serengeti and Carrot Top. Aaron, Blair, and Sam were working Sucker Punch (V5) which looked awesome. Oh, and I found the lost license plate. What are the odds? Tuesday, we packed up camp, drove through Death Valley (yay for 100 feet below sea level!) on our way to Red Rocks.

Death Valley

Wednesday, we started off the day with a 5 mile (roundtrip) 2000 ft gain hike on Turtlehead Peak. There was some snow close to the top and it was beautiful! After the hike, we headed over to the Tsunami boulder so I could work Amazing Grace and the men could work Red Wave (V10). Three weeks of climbing outside can do wonders to your strength! The first move that seemed so difficult back then was easy peasy this time. I ironed out beta and am amped to go back and finish it off. Aaron and Blair worked the dyno Red Wave and Aaron sent it! All in all, a great first day back in Red Rocks.

Aaron sticking the dyno!

Thursday, Aaron and I dropped Blair off at Kraft Daycare and headed on over to Rose Tower. After a lovely hike in, we stashed our bags, geared up, and found our way to the base of Olive Oil (5 pitches, 5.7). We were planning on swinging leads but we found out that every pitch required the climber to build an anchor (which I have done only once with my feet firmly on the ground). We decided in was in our best interest to let Aaron lead all the pitches and we would go over anchor building more thoroughly and let me practice a few times before I lead a pitch where I had to build an anchor and belay him up. We got stuck behind two groups, the first of which was really slow. It was a beautiful day so we took our time and enjoyed the climbing and views. We linked the 2nd and 3rd pitches so Aaron had to be more conscious of gear placements. To keep my mental game up to par, I pretended I was leading so I could think of what gear I wanted to place wear while also keeping in mind how much further I had to climb and what gear I would have left to place. The last pitch was hands down my favorite. It started out with a long traverse out right and then up a chimney. The climbing was varied and kept you thinking the whole time. I managed to wiggle up the chimney without taking off the pack. I totally wedged myself into the crack at one point so I could take both hands off and rest/take out a piece of gear. Then at one point, I tested how far my wingspan could actually reach (which is surprisingly far for being 5'4"). We reached the summit, took some pictures, ate some food, and did the descent which was MUCH MUCH MUCH better than the Mescalito descent. This is one that I felt totally comfortable on and never saw my life flash before my eyes. We found Blair working Angel Dyno (V7) and headed back to camp.

Summit of Rose Tower!

Friday was another good day of bouldering. We started off at the Monkey Bar Boulder. Blair worked a V7 and I worked a V6. I didn't make it too far off the ground my sure gave my shoulders a workout. Aaron attempted Atomic Wedgie (V10). Then we headed over to The Muffler (V4) so I could work out the beta. I got the first few moves dialed and worked the crux move a few times and stuck it once for a very short second before I fell. Definitely need to go back and just do it. Then we headed over to Stand and Deliver (V10) so Aaron could work on it. Lo and behold that was a fantastic idea. We were there for awhile when the one and only ADAM ONDRA appeared. You know, only one of the best climbers in the world. Yeah, no big deal. So naturally we openly stared and watched him easily flash a V12. Hmm, just when I thought I was getting good... 

Today, Saturday the 28 of February, we are kissing the end of the month goodbye with a rest day. We did a lot of errands, I bought a 48L pack, and now am soaking  up the internet at Starbucks. I even got to Skype with Anna for a short time :) Today is good.

Baked Goodies and Summit Selfies

Whoa, so I haven't posted in awhile! I know - how dare I do such a thing to y'all?! I bet y'all are just going crazy wondering what I've been up to this past week or so! I could write a super short blog summing it up and it would go like this: I've been tearing up my fingertips, hiking until my glutes are sore for a few days, eating delicious baked goodies, slept under a roof for a few nights, and watched my TRC kids crush at the ABS comp. But that wouldn't make for a fun read would it? Okay, so here is the long-winded story.

Last Saturday was a rest day and we watched the ABS open competition, specifically to watch Kai Lightner (Team TRC) compete in his first ABS open comp. I love watching how all the competitors attack the problem differently and watching their muscles work to keep them on the wall. Funny how a rest day can teach you so much about climbing!

Sunday was Aaron's birthday! We did a morning session at the Buttermilks. Aaron and Blair worked the moves on Soul Slinger (V9). I pulled onto Junior Achievement (V8) and got really close to sticking some of the moves which naturally just made me want to go back and get it later. Anyways, then it started raining so we left. We watched the ABS finals round, went out for Chinese per Aaron's request, and saw American Sniper in the theater.

Monday, we went back to the Happies after a slow morning of getting ready. Aaron and Blair attempted the moves on Red Rum stand start (V7) whilst I worked out the moves on Rendezvous with an Alien (V3). My men worked on Morning Dove White (V7) for awhile. I attempted the first moves but the pockets weren't very friendly for my tendons so I saved it for my project. After awhile we headed over to Mr. Witty (V6). I didn't have quite enough lock-off strength to reach the mono (I have the picture to show how close I am). Aaron sent it shortly after. He was also kind enough to give me a power spot so I could feel the mono and see if I could pull off of it. Yeah, I'll have to try again. Then we went over to Every Color You Are (V6) so Blair could work out the top moves. Unfortunately, I didn't take any sick pictures of Blair on it even though he looked awesome! I waited for the sun to stop touching my project and then we headed over to Solarium. GOSH DARN IT! I am so close to wrapping this project up! I have all the moves dialed and now I just have to stick the lip. I didn't stick it - my fingers grazed it a few times - but I found better feet beta for the jump.

Campground Boulder in Rock Creek

Tuesday, our friend Caitlin joined us! She had been in Heuco, TX for about 5 weeks climbing (not jealous at all). Caitlin and Blair went bouldering and Aaron and I went of to ORG again for some sport climbing. We warmed up on Paradise (5.9), then cruised through a 10c and 10b where I pulled a little too hard with my ring finger and irritated my tendon again (one day I'll stop doing that I swear), then Aaron did Love Stinks (11a). We wrapped it up with Wedge-O (10b). I'm getting much better at the hike out ever since Aaron taught me the mountaineer walk thingy. Wednesday was a rest day for us.

Not the best picture but this is the view from the Campground Boulder

Thursday we went to the Happies with Caitlin and met up with Erin and Ian. Our friend Maddy was supposed to meet us there but got delayed and met us at camp that night. Caitlin spent most of the morning working Acid Wash Right (V7). Aaron and Blair worked on some V9s (Fast Dance and Last Dance) and then went after Kill Onsight (V12 / V11 stand start). I tried working the moves on Monkey Hang (V3) but I was so stretched out and didn't have the abs to keep my feet from peeling off and me cartwheeling off the holds. Anyways, we joined Caitlin - which was a whole 15 feet away - and we worked various problems over there. In the afternoon we went over to the Happy Boulder and Solarium Boulder. They worked on Hulk (V6), Disco Diva (V8), Disco Hulk (V9) and who knows what else. I took a little break, worked Rendezvous with an Alien again as a warm up before I hit my project. My fingers once again grazed the hold a few times but STILL DIDN'T STICK IT!! Unfortunately we had to leave early to meet up with Erin and Ian for dinner so I didn't get to fully thrash myself on my project.

Friday we went to the Checkerboard area in the morning. I wasn't really feeling it so I didn't climb but was more than content to just hang out, be outside, and watch my friends work on some problems. It was getting hot (like Wisconsin summer hot) so we headed up to Rock Creek. I was going to work on a V4 but it turned out that a massive hold broke and it was then a V7. There were a ton of people - which is awesome for hanging out but not so much climbing - so I decided to hang out most of the day. Anyways, Maddy got the V7, Aaron got Osama Sit-start Eliminate (V10), and Alex also got the 7. Then we headed over to a different boulder where people were working the V9 Overzealous. Alex and I went over to a nearby boulder to work a V3 Twisted Sister. He sent that rather quickly and we moved over to Groove and Arete (V4). Eventually, Ian and Aaron came over and worked Dude (V9). It got cold so we left. And by left, I actually mean we packed up and headed to Ridgecrest for the weekend. Alex and Sarah were amazing hosts and let us crash in their house. Whoa, did I just say that? I mean, did we actually have running water, electricity, a roof over our heads, a real stove, and access to a shower?! Oh, and that's not all. Sarah is a baker. Enough said.

Saturday (Valentine's Day), Maddy, Aaron, Alex, Blair and I took a long hike. We hiked the Pacific Crest Trail to the summit of Mount Morris and Mount Owens and did a through-hike so we didn't have to hike the same path down to the car. I think Aaron was impressed my improved hiking abilities, as was I. We had a long ways ahead of us once we hit the summit. We hiked down and made it to the road. We decided running would be a good idea and Blair took off like a bat out of hell with his messenger bag. And he kept running. Maddy and I slowed down and did a brisk walk and chatted. Eventually we got to the truck and took off for an Indian buffet (yay for chana masala)! I fell asleep very quickly that night. I didn't even hear the cats wandering about in the room at night, haha.

View along the Pacific Crest Trail

Sunday was next. We went to a nearby sport crag. Unfortunately, my muscles got more and more sore as the day progressed so I did very limited climbing. They did some 10a and 10c slab climbs, Aaron did a 5.8 crack trad route that I TR'd. Alex did a route nearby and had an interesting landing. Aaron discovered he had forgotten his lunch so Alex and I donated food to him. I think I deserve some good girlfriend points right? Haha, just joking, I would never let someone go without lunch. We went grocery shopping and bought pizza ingredients. We let Sarah spoil us with her AMAZING cooking and baking skills and she made homemade pizza, a chocolate orange cake for Alex's birthday, and brownie/marshmallow deliciousness. We watched an episode of Peaky Blinders and the movie Snatch. I know, I know, not very dirtbag of us. But there were baked goodies!

Summit shot!

Monday, we went to Alabama Hills for sport climbing. Aaron put up a 10b which I cleaned. Then he hung draws on Rodeo Queen (10d). I then lead it which, by the way, was the second hardest outdoor sport lead I have EVER done! I had to hang a few times but I did make it to the top and it was a fantastic climb! Then Aaron lead an 11d which I attempted to clean on TR but didn't quite have it in me. Then he lead a 12b before we switched corridors and took it easy. Well, Alex didn't but we did :) We said our goodbyes and headed back to Bishop.

So now it is Tuesday and here I am writing my blog listening to music that was most likely played at one of my proms. Time to change pandora stations apparently. It went from Shakira to music that I don't know how it even made it big. Dang, I'm easily side-tracked at the moment. Now I'm waiting for it to be 12:30p my time so I can skype Anna!! Later today we are going to head out to the Happies for a late afternoon session. See ya soon!

Five Fingers

Bishop

Hey cuties! Sorry I haven't posted in so long! Last rest day I was too antsy to sit still and write a blog. So now I have quite a bit to catch y'all up on!

Wednesday it was still too wet to climb in Red Rocks and we were forced to take another rest day. After sitting at Starbuck's for awhile, we hiked Kraft Mountain which was a great time! We hiked up the east side ridge and hiked off the west side.

Thursday, Aaron and I climbed Birdland (5.7+, 5 pitches). It was my duty to direct us to the base of the climb (he's teaching me all sorts of skills!) and since he already did this route, he could correct me if needed. Anyways, we got the climb and racked up. I lead the first pitch and felt pretty good about gear placement. I started leading the second pitch, got scared at one point, got lowered, and Aaron lead that pitch. I still didn't like that section toproping. Aaron lead the third pitch. The fourth pitch was all me. It started with a 20ish foot runout traverse section. I finally got some pro in and kept on going. The route was kind of hard to follow (Aaron warned me I may be getting off route at one point while kind of running it out aha), but I found the crack about 10 feet up. Closer to the top of the pitch I somehow managed to get myself in a spot without good gear placement so I ran it out a bit again. I placed a sketchy cam as a mental piece and then placed a better cam a few feet up and shot straight for the anchor. Not really my proudest lead but I'm fairly confident that the cam above the sketchy cam would have caught me if I fell. Anyways, we rappelled down to find that some goat animal ate part of our lunch. We were hungry.

View from our campsite in Bishop

This is why i love climbing. You get views like this at sunset.

 Friday was more rain so we left for Bishop. No climbing :(  Saturday we went to the Buttermilks and I learned the definition of a highball. I met Aaron and Blair's friend Ian. Aaron worked Evilution (V10). I took the morning off and warmed up later. I tried a V4 cave problem but it was really reachy and I struggled. We then went over to the Iron Man boulder and I worked Iron Man (V4). After a few burns my finger I injured started hurting again so I decided to stop. Ian, Blair, and Aaron were working this V9 dyno on the boulder and I got a few cool pics!

Iron Man (V4). When the tongue is out, you know I have my send face on.

Ian sticking the dyno

Sunday we went to the Happies and I met Ian's girlfriend, Erin. Also Alex and Nathan came up for the weekend to climb. We warmed up on some V1 and VB highballs and I attempted the V1 Heavenly Path but the height scared me on the committing move to the slab and I downclimbed it. We went over to a different boulder and I played around on two V3s but wasn't able to make it much past the first few moves. Aaron sent Acid Wash (V10) and a V7 variation of Acid Wash. It was really fun watching all the guys work the problems because they all had different beta for their body type. I actually can learn a lot from watching them! Then we went over to the Solarium and I worked that problem (V4, stiffish?)

Dialing in the beta for Solarium

Monday we rested. Blair and I did an afternoon session and Aaron continued to rest. We went back to my project and I dialed the beta for the lower moves and got a high point. I have some pictures to prove I was climbing! We also went back to Blair's project, the V7 variation of Acid Wash. Tuesday was back to the Buttermilks. Aaron and Blair worked Evilution again and Aaron made some great progress! I took a rest for the morning. We met up with Sam and Steph (a very sweet couple that is near our age) at the Sads for an afternoon session. Little did we know there was a top-secret parking spot that made for a much shorter approach. Sam, Aaron, and Blair worked on Beef Cake (V10) and Sam worked Beefy Gecko (V11). WARNING: I am about to shamelessly build myself up. I was able to pull on and make the first move on the problem! I could get to the toe-hook but didn't get it to stay. So yes, shameless.

A 5.9ish arete warmup. Classic highball on the Grandma Peabody

And the downclimb. Aaron is in blue and Sam in red.

Wednesday, Aaron and I went to Owen's River Gorge for some sport climbing. We had a very interesting approach (got great glutes and quads now). Aaron hung the draws on a 5.8 and I started to lead it. Unfortunately, only a few bolts up my tendon started hurting (forgot to tape it) so I had him take and shake it out. Then I went for the next bolt and I felt it pop :(  Do not fear! Aaron dummied my finger so I couldn't use it and I could continue climbing! I stuck to top roping so I could really focus my mental energy on being gentle on my fingers as to not hurt them anymore. I climbed another 9, 8, and 7 which were all super fun. I cannot wait to go back when my finger is feeling better so I can lead all the sweet looking 10s and maybe 11s! We went to the Sads to go pick up Blair which actually turned into them working Beef Cake again. Aaron sent it after a few burns. My man is strong :)

Thursday was Sam's birthday so him and Steph and a bunch of their friends went to the Druids and invited us. Unfortunately I had a terrible migraine so I didn't really climb for awhile. Eventually, I took a crashpad and wandered around and climbed a bunch of super easy things with my dummied finger alone (noises were not good for the migraine). It started feeling better and the crew went over to the Thunder Wall which had a 3, 4, 6, and 8+ problems. I pulled onto the 3 (Thunder) and struggled to find beta which wouldn't stress my tendon. Unable to, I gave up before hurting my finger too bad. Migraine kicked in extra high gear so we headed home for the night. Still had a great time seeing Steph and Sam and the crew!

Aaron sticking a move on Evilution

Add caption

Friday, today, we did a morning/early afternoon session at the Happies again. I warmed up a bit and started working Solarium again. A big group stopped by so we had tons of pads. Aaron and Blair were sending The Hulk (V6) on a nearby boulder. Me and a bunch of other ladies took turns giving the Solarium burns. I dialed in better foot beta which is very helpful for the launch to the top. On one of my first burns, I stuck the lip (not the ticked spot haha) but one of my feet blew and I came off. Let me tell you, that hold felt good! Well, good enough to get to the ticked jug. Psych was through the roof. A bunch of the other ladies were getting to the same spot and we were determined to stick it. I got Aaron to come over and spot me/pump me up. I eased through the bottom part and made a big move to the pocket. I turned the pocket into an undercling and got the thumb catch. I got my feet situated and launched for the hold. My finger tips grazed the hold but I wasn't able to grab it. It was a very sad moment but at least I know I can get there. Now I just have to stick in and make the bump to the jug and I'll send my problem! Next time. Oh, by the way, it was super windy and we had a mini-dust storm which kind of threw our stuff all around the campsite but we recovered everything so it's all good.

Have some pictures. I'll rest my finger. Aaron is going to get this knot out of my back (whether he knows it yet or not). You are going to have sweaty palms. Bye loves!

Panorama view from atop a climb at the Happies

Only one more move to the lip. So close!

Sunset behind the Grandma and Grandpa Peabodies. This picture makes them look small but they are giant boulders.