Lovin' Me Some Leavenworth

Hi everyone! So this weekend I disappeared into the mountains. Not surprised? This time our destination was Icicle Creek Canyon in Leavenworth. I don't know if I mentioned this before but Leavenworth is a quaint Bavarian town. I'll post a picture of the town in winter - I really want to go back there around Christmas because it has to be beautiful. At first it kind of threw me off and I didn't like it but it is working it's way into my heart. 

Leavenworth, WA

So Friday after work, we packed the truck and left for Leavenworth. I tried so hard to stay awake during the drive but I fell asleep. We got to our parking spot and crawled in back, read our books for awhile, and I passed out hard. I slept through other cars pulling up, people talking rather loudly, and all the wind making strange sounds outside.

Icicle Creek

Saturday we woke up to a beautiful view of Icicle Creek and whatever peaks that were to the west beyond Pearly Gates. We packed our packs and started the hike to the Pearly Gates. Creek crossing should be a sport. Wet logs and rocks are not the easiest thing to stay balanced on with a pack on your back tossing your equilibrium off. Nobody got a wet hiney after multiple crossings of the creek. We even had a nice little bushwhack to get on the path again. Once we got to the Pearly Gates, we picked a 5.8 to warm up on and we couldn't have picked a better one! We started off on Loaves of Fun (5.8) and it was actually my favorite climb of the day. I even have a picture - the only picture I took whilst we were there.

Start of Loaves of Fun. Maybe I'll make this my first 5.8 trad lead :)

Then the plan was to do a 5.10d sport climb into a 5.9 crack climb. Well Fear No Evil (5.10d) was one heck of a climb. Who doesn't love a 5.10d slab sport climb?!  It was probably one of the hardest 5.10 slabs I've climbed in a long time and I can't say i was extremely fond of it. But we made it to the top and decided the crack we wanted to do was too dirty and we rappelled to go to better crack climbs. We did the first pitch of Cloud 9 (5.8) with ease and then cruised on up No Room for Squares (5.8). 

We headed into Leavenworth for a beer at Icicle Brewing and snacks. We wanted to fuel up for a quick bouldering session at the Egg Boulders. I worked Weather Report (V3/4). Oh baby was that a reachy one. After I figured out how to get off the ground, I could stick the first move most of the time but just could not make the bump to the better hold!! Therefore, I just tried pinching with all my might as I brought my left foot up to a small foot-chip to try and gun for the next hold. Let's just say I need to go back and finish it. In the meantime, Aaron gave Dark Hollow (V5) a few go's and sent it. Then we walked to the other side of the boulder so I could do Carlisle (V2+) but we aren't exactly sure if it was the climb or not. So we will call it Megan's Variation of Carlisle. Anyways, it started on an undercling and then I shot my left hand out to grab this side-pull pinch hold and then got my right hand on a big flat hold. Gravity was strange at this point because my body really wanted to come flying off to the right no matter if my right hand was on or not. So I fought gravity and sent it! YAY!

Drugstore Cowboy. A fun heel-hook leads you to this position. I usually don't like the first move of problems but that is totally not the case for this problem. The first move adds so much to the problem because the starting holds are shallow pockets and totally different than the overhanging jugs fighting gravity during an awkward topout.

Sunday, we went to Mad Meadows for a morning session on Drugstore Cowboy (V3) and Peephole (V10). After a few warm-up go's on Drugstore Cowboy (and key beta from Aaron), I started giving it burns from the start. The key beta was a heel-hook way off the the right of the start holds which made the small pockets feel amazing. Anyways, you walk your hands up the rail jug and then do some interesting footwork so you're kind of parallel to the ground. Then comes the awkward and tricky top-out. I worked the top sequence over and over and over until my triceps felt like they were going to fall off. I just could NOT find something that worked for me. Then I gave it a few more burns from the beginning and I have the sequence dialed in to get me to the top-out but still no send. Next time, when I'm fresh, I will - I WILL - send that problem! I promise.