I Lost My New River Gorginity

Pack my clothes. Grab face wash. Don't forget the nail clippers. Whoops, better bring the deodorant missy. Smash a towel into the bag. A sports bra is probably a good idea too. Throw it on the pile. Place approach shoes next to pile. Toss a pillow in the general direction. Receive the text 'almost here.' Mutter 'bugger' under your breath. Go into tornado mode. Fling the rain-jacket towards the door. Shove your feet into shoes. Use the bathroom before you leave. Friend is here. Open my car. Dig around for climbing gear. Realize your car reeks of sweaty climbing shoes. Make a mental note to febreeze it later. Quickly forget that mental note. Neatly arrange quickdraws on a sling. Proceed to stuff neatly arranged draws into climbing bag. Toss helmet to friend. Run inside to grab belongings. Do I have everything? Nope. Track down missing water bottle. Right where I left it. Cool. Oops, unlock the door again. Grab food from the fridge. Where did I put my keys? Oh, in my hand. Okay, in the car lets go. I'm ready to lose my New River Gorginity.

Slightly exaggerated but fairly accurate.

So guess where I went? Yeah, that's right, I was at the New River Gorge in West Virginia. I've been to The Red a few times - which is much further away - but never to The New!! Say what?! My dearest, most beloved climbing friends will be very happy to know that is no longer the case. I quickly discovered why people debate over which Gorge is better. Maybe I haven't seen enough of the New but I'm still leaning towards the Red. Given the Red is my style of climbing and I have some awesome memories of climbing with Aaron and other friends there.

See everyone, this is why I love climbing. Not only is it a full body work out, focuses your mind and energy, but I get to be in some of the most beautiful places on Earth. Surrounded by nature with your climbing buddies - nothing is better.

Anyways, the first day was hot. Not like Wisconsin or Texas hot but muggy southeast hot. I swear it was 130 degrees and 99% humidity. We went to Summersville Lake - Orange Oswald area and I got to hop on a few climbs. Such climbs were: Fabulous Groupies, Hippie Dreams, and Chunko Goes Bowling. I discovered very quickly that 9s are much harder at the New than anywhere else I've climbed! 10s aren't much better. Oh, I saw snakes. The first when was when I was emptying my bladder. I didn't think twice about yanking up my shorts and high tailing it out of there. Trust me, I was too scared to finish - I just grabbed my harness and fled. Then later when I was checking out another climb, I saw another one. It stared at me and flicked its tongue. Needless to say, I found a different route back. 

The next day was fun. We started walking to an area when the sky opened up, cried and told us we were not to go climbing. So we went back to the car, waited, and then headed to different area. This place had a big roof to keep us dry. We hopped on Totally Tammy first. When I was belaying David, the steam/fog rolled up the gorge and ate us. It was kind of cool to see. Being as smart as I am, I always fail to remember to bring my camera. I tried Totally Tammy. Let's just say the crux is the start and is sucky if you can't quite reach that crimpy side-pull. Oh how I would have loved to get my fingertips on that! After much struggle, it was smooth sailing to the top. Then we hopped on Rico Suave Arete (the best 10a in the New). I agree with the book. Sustained climbing, pull a little roof, and bloop you're at the anchors. I would gladly do that one again. Grit and Bear It (11a) was next. David lead, I attempted to clean (made it 4 of the 5 bolts!!), decided getting pulled by the rope when I wanted to go the other way wasn't worth the struggle, and let him finish the job. Can't say it was a bad day (even after the rain).

Friday morning we went on down to the Head Wall in Bubba City. Once again, I tried a 9 (Hubba Bubba) which was harder than anything else I've climbed I swear. I took an attempt at Pyro Vixen but a swing-ride made me decide a different time would be better. But hey, the New is close so I'll be going back in no time!

I also learned a few things about climbing this past week. Everytime I go climbing outside I'm thinking of climbs that I want to take Aaron to. I really only trust 3 people to belay me on lead. Telling me that 9s at the New are hard as I'm struggling through one doesn't make me feel better. I still struggle pulling roofs (grrr). Approach shoes are amazing.

Anyways, I'm finishing up some extension papers and hopefully getting them into publication soon! Besides that and inoculating corn, I just climb and read. So if any of you Wisconsinites want to get some heat in your veins, North Carolina is the place to be. hint hint: it means come visit me.