Thursday, August 28, 2014

Smart is Beautiful

Well howdy folks! I got sick of doing my online classes so I thought I'd take a break and write one of these blog things. You know, because I don't have anything else to do or anything productive like research I should be doing. But that's what evenings are for. I have the lab to myself, I can autoclave whatever I want whenever I want, and can play my music at whichever volume I feel like. So lab and I are having a hot date tonight. Actually, just kidding! It's freezing in lab. I will be dressed up like it's a Wisconsin winter.

Anyways, it's the same old same old with research and being a TA. I sneak out to TRC pretty much every day and climb until my muscles ache. Which means no climbing for Megan tonight. Holding my arms out like a 'T' makes my shoulders scream in agony. I'm guessing that means my last two sessions were awesome. And yes, I sang awesome with jazz hands.

So that's that. Now here comes the cool stuff. Yesterday I was reading a plant pathology journal article on the bus (like the cool kids do) and someone sits next to me. He awkwardly peers over my shoulder to see what I'm reading. He snickers to himself (probably because he couldn't read any of the words). Then he taps my arm to get my attention. I turn to look at him and he tells me 'YOU ARE TOO SMART FOR YOUR OWN GOOD!' Oh jeez, thanks for the insult? So yes, he thought he was being a jerk but he just gave me a big compliment instead :) In honor of that random guy, here are some quotes and pictures of intelligence or intelligent people.








Saturday, August 16, 2014

My Weekend Was Better Than Yours

Sooo...I hate to rub it in your face, but weekend was easily way better than yours! I'm referring to last weekend when Aaron, Alex, Katie, and I went to the North Cascades and did the South Arete route on South Early Winter Spire. Yeah, that's right, we only had a 4 hour drive to paradise. Oh, I should mention that if you're looking for paradise, don't be searching white sand beaches, a fruity drink, sun-tanned skin, and a beach towel. All you need is a little climbing and camping gear, mountains and rocks, and some chill people. Wahla! Shazam! Boomdadabing! Paradise Found.
See. Paradise.

Friday after work, Aaron and I picked Katie and Alex up from the local REI, navigated to I-5, hopped in the carpool lane and zoomed until we hit traffic. Fill up the car, grab some groceries, jam and cram into the car (sorry Alex and Katie), and zip on up towards Mazama. We set up camp, had a drink, and went to sleep. Just in case you are wondering - which I know you are - NO I DID NOT HAVE A SLEEPING BAG. It didn't fit in my bag and wasn't planning on freezing my hiney off. (Little did I know that Alex had an extra sleeping bag but when I learned that it was too late to turn around and get it). Anyways, thankfully Aaron stores all sorts of stuff in his car and his puffy was in there. He was a gentleman and let me wear it :)  Well, sleeping was a different story. I shoved my feet in the bottom of his sleeping bag - and unknowingly kicked his feet out - and curled up under his puffy the best I could. Y'all know how good I am at stealing covers right? Well I think Aaron learned very quickly to pin part of the sleeping bag under him so I couldn't steal the whole sleeping bag. Anyways, it was a cold long night and neither of us slept very well. No worries, the morning brought sunshine and warmer temperatures.
mmm....this view
Okay, okay! I'll stop rambling on about how cold it was and get to the fun stuff. We hiked the Blue Lake Trail for roughly a mile and a half, followed the climbers trail and scrambled up to the base of the route. I found a lot of goat poop on the way up just so you know. Oh, and allergies made it feel like I ran a marathon after smoking 25 packs of cigarettes. So, we gained some good elevation by then. Aaron racked up, we tied into each other, I put food and water in my pack, and off we went. Since the first "pitch" was the hardest (5.5), I threw him on a belay. He belayed me up and Alex started leading for Katie to follow. After that Aaron and I start to simul-climb. Mom, Dad, don't worry we were just being extra safe :)  Anyways, Aaron started to climb, placed pieces when necessary and when the rope got close to being tight, I started to follow him. You can climb very quickly that way! There were a few times when Aaron was going faster than me or times when I was cruising when he wasn't but we worked out a rhythm quickly and cruised up to the top. We untied and free climbed up to the summit. There was only one time where the exposure got to me which was when we were towards the top and there were only peaks and air in the near vicinity. But I wouldn't have traded it for anything else. Aaron and I had lunch at the summit (my first time ever reaching a summit by the way!!!) and then started the down climb. We picked up our discarded gear and down climbed until we reached the first rappel station. Down climb some more, one last rappel and bam! we reached the bottom. As we were packing our stuff up we noticed some goat friends just chilling nearby. Then another goat came over, stared at Aaron and stomped its foot. That's when the other group started the climb and we left. Here's some fancy words (at least I hope they are the right words!) that describe what we did: alpine trad mountaineering, simul-climbing, free climbing. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong!
See. Mountain goats.
I climbed that.
After we all made it back to the car, we grabbed some food at a store in Mazama and then went rock climbing. And by we, I mean Aaron and Alex did a climb or two. I'll be the first to admit I was blasted tired and couldn't get psyched to climb. Then they went swimming in some ice cold water (I think I was the only smart one). Anyways, we went to the campground, made vegetarian chili, played countdown, had some beers, and slept through a much less cold night. On Sunday, we went climbing at a nearby crag. I on-sited a 10b and fell only once on a 10c. So I was super happy about that :) Around lunch-time we left for Seattle. The view on the drive out was beautiful. Damn I wish I was there again...
Beauty everywhere.
Monday, was back to work for Aaron and back to practicing my presentation. I grabbed coffee at some random place and just did the usual. We went to SBP after a good dinner at Annapurna. By the way, that is my most favorite restaurant ever. So if you want a happy Megan, take her there. Tuesday - my last day in Seattle - I walked Aaron to work like usual and then read my book for most of the day. I packed my bags (THE SECOND WORST PART), the cleaning lady came in, I continued reading my book, I paced around downtown, found a nice little bench by the Amazon building and practiced my speech some more. Aaron got something notarized and we went out for our last dinner. We hung out in his room until I had to get going to the Link. I HATE GOODBYES. THEY ARE STUPID AND DUMB AND I HATE THEM. Actually, I'm just tired of saying goodbye to my loved ones. I just want to be there or them here. Simple solution, right? Nope. But it's all good. We are all doing what we want to do.
Look me in the eyes and tell me this isn't beautiful.
After two plane rides with barely any sleep thanks to the creepy guy using me as a pillow, I made it back to Raleigh, Then I had to go to the field with fellow Purdue researchers to film me talking about my project. It went surprisingly well. Then the next day was Field Day. Megan and I nailed our talks and survived our first field day. I have little corn magnets too as proof! Then it was a lot of cleaning, trying to sleep normal Raleigh hours which I have been unsuccessful at, and climbing until my arms fall off. Classes start in 4 days. Woo. Hoo. Yay. 
I'll move here now. Thanks.

Monday, August 11, 2014

Pacific Northwest

Well hey there! I am being super cool and writing this in a different time zone than usual. Yup, that's right; I am in the Pacific Time Zone. Sorry Eastern, but I'll be back before you know it. The first night and day always throws me off a bit but it is completely worth it to be back in Seattle! I've been here almost a week but only have two more nights here. Don't you worry guys, I've been on top of my research and TA duties. I have received numerous emails at 4a my time (I think some people forgot I wasn't in NC...) and I'm sure they get real confused when I send them emails at 2a their time! Although I had research and TA stuff to do, I can guarantee that I was doing it in a way cooler place than you. I have pictures for proof.
Nothing like a welcome to Seattle like seeing Mt. Rainier from the plane. This is why I always have the window seat.
So on Monday, I said goodbye to Raleigh, exercised in the Detroit airport, meandered through SeaTac, hopped on the Link, chatted with a brilliant 4 year old, saw the beautiful Mt. Rainier, met up with Aaron, and climbed at Seattle Bouldering Project before falling asleep at a reasonable hour. When Aaron was at work on Tuesday, I hung out at Denny Park editing my research papers and practicing my field day speech. Aaron and I went out for lunch at a delicious Indian buffet close by Amazon (wish I remembered the name!!) Then I continued to look at my papers and hunted down thesis reference articles. After work, we had more yummay food at another place that I can't remember the name. Man, you would think that by now I would write them down so I could go there again in the future! Hurricane Cafe!! *I only know that because Aaron just told me*  Then we went to SBP for yoga, which completely kicked my butt. This was not the kind of yoga I am used to doing. This was like "I-will-get-you-into-great-shape-while-sweating-your-hiney-off-and-by-the-way-do-this-crazy-arm-balance-pose-that-only-this-one-chick-and-Aaron-can-do-but-it's-okay-if-you-can't-because-you're-still-trying-to-figure-out-what-is-happening."
Doing research by the Sound beats any day of research at any other time.
Then Wednesday arrived. I walked Aaron to work and then grabbed my laptop to go do research in a way cooler place than Raleigh. I ordered a dark chocolate mocha and headed to the library. This is a sick looking library (and it's pretty sustainable too!!) Anyways, I got a little lost in this library, wandered around downtown a little more, and then found my way down to The Sound. I found a nice table and went to work. I arranged more tours at potential places to work, found tons of information about cool places to work in downtown Seattle, and enjoyed my day. After lunch, I went to Seattle Center and read my book until Aaron was done with work. Just so you know, they have singing flowers at the Seattle Center. They are big metal sculptures that look like flowers, have solar panels on top to generate energy which is used to power little speakers of music. At Seattle Center, I was reading my book pretty much right under the Space Needle. Oh, that was just to prove my day was better than the vast majority of graduate students. After dinner at a romantic little Italian place called 'La Fontana Siciliana', Aaron and I went to Gas Works Park for sunset. There is some old rusted structures (from a mill or something?) on the east side of the park. The south side of the park overlooked Lake Union and had a spectacular view of downtown Seattle. We also had a great view of Queen Anne and Capitol Hill areas of Seattle. I can't imagine a better way to spend a Wednesday evening than that :)
Panorama of the view from Gas Works Park. Perfect weather. Perfect view. Perfect night.
Thursday, oh Thursday. You did not go as well as I would have hoped. My interviews did not go so well. This was because the vineyards weren't actually vineyards. They were wineries and tasting cellars named after the vineyards that grew the vines in Southeastern Washington about 3 hours away from Seattle. What makes you think I'm going to drive 6+ hours a day for a stinking job?! OH HELL NO! One lady was very rude and snooty. But the other people I interviewed with were super sweet and extremely helpful. One guy gave me three websites that posted vineyard jobs on the daily. He also brought up a map of Washington and showed me where things were located, which ones were my best options, and other places to contact. I did get some good photos and found a bunch of places to taste wine. Jeez guys! It's not like I'm a Wine-o or anything...    Immediately after Aaron got back from work, we left for Rattlesnake Ledge. On the drive there we had a great view of Mt. Rainier! We had a 2 mile 1100 ft vertical gain hike to get to the ledge. Holy moly was it beautiful. Don't believe me? Here are the pictures to prove it. (I was going to post them anyways).
View from Rattlesnake Ledge.
Just some beautiful mountains. Why don't I live here?
Rattlesnake Lake :) 
Love. Love. Love. Love.
Some grapes growing at Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery. 
Well... I don't want to spoil y'all too much so I'll stop here for now! Don't worry, I have so much to say about my weekend. Let's just say my weekend was better than yours. Now, Aaron and I are going to practice our presentations to each other and then curl up and watch some Netflix before crashing not under the stars. Sleep tight!

Saturday, August 2, 2014

McAfee's Knob

What is crack - a - lackin' folks? Life slapped me in the face the past few days. It decided I wasn't busy enough how I was, so it added a semi's worth of work to get done. How cute. In 18 days, semester starts and I have about 45 days worth to get done in the meantime. Lucky me. But on the bright side, Aaron came to visit AND I got to touch some real rock. So being crazy busy is okay because I got a little break before I disappear into corn fields from sunrise to sunset. Oh, and I'm headed out to Seattle again for job tours / interviews and scoping out the area (and to see the one and only Aaron, of course)!
Maybe this is the Midwesterner in me coming out but seeing farm fields stretching out like arms of Nature is relaxing. Nothing but life, check and balance, biological interactions, and me underneath the great blue sky. Nothing but fresh air, leaves and tassels, critters talking, and me reaching towards the great blue sky. Nothing but plants, soil and roots, pathogens, and me underneath the great blue sky.
 Anyways, I learned extremely quickly that being a TA is going to suck the life out of me. The semester hasn't even started and I have bitten off more than I can possibly chew. As y'all know, I have a rather big appetite and have a bottomless pit for a stomach. But this is something completely different. My to-do list is up to my eyebrows and more is being added faster than I can get done. Some great words of advice from my fellow professors: "It wouldn't be graduate school if you weren't stressed and too busy. You just have to find small windows of time to get everything done on time if you want to succeed." Umm...what if I need to sleep between the hours of 1a and 4a? Or do MY research project when the sun is out? Oh that's right, there will be small windows of time for me to get everything. Don't worry guys, I'm a graduate student. I will not be able to breathe or talk unless I am elbow-deep in corn or grading papers. For the next 18 weeks, I will be paid very little to do very much. You know it's bad when I say something like "I rather not climb for a month than do what a graduate student does in a week." ...I thought slavery was abolished a few years back...maybe they need to rewrite the law to include graduate students who just want to sleep... Oh wait, that's called wishful thinking.
"Agriculture is our wisest pursuit, because it will in the end contribute most to real wealth, good morals, and happiness." -A Letter from Thomas Jefferson to George Washington (1787)
But on a much happier side of the coin, Aaron came to visit last weekend! He flew in Friday morning so we had over two full days together. I know that doesn't sound like much to y'all but it is. Trust me. But it's a major tease. Oh you missed each other? Here! See each other for a few hours! Are you having a good time? Good! Now let me place you back in your respective time zones. Oh I'm sorry, you don't like that do you? It's okay, you'll see him after you flip a page or two on the calendar. **That was Life having a one-sided conversation directed at me in case you were wondering.**
Thank a farmer. They feed you at least 3 times a day.
So as I was saying, Aaron came to visit! I took him to TRC-NR on Friday and we did some bouldering. I hopped on some 4s and watched Aaron on some 7s. Can I quick mention how much fun it is to watch better climbers than yourself? A heel here, a compression there - it's a learning experience. But what doesn't make you feel better is when you are struggling on a climb and everybody can do it but you. I struggle. Rami climbs it easily. I struggle. Tyler makes it look like a 0. I struggle. Taylor flies through it. I struggle. Random little kid crushes it. YET I STILL STRUGGLE!! Okay, rant over. So we climbed for awhile, walked around the lake, ate some delicious food, and hung out. I don't care what we do, as long as I get to see him.
Rust. Plant pathogens are cool.
Saturday, we went to the expansion at Morrisville. I managed to get on some harder stuff without my elbow hurting! speaking of, I should do some push-ups to make sure it stays that way. So cool story here. Aaron was leading a 5.13. After a certain point, I couldn't see him because of the wall shape. However, there were a few people standing on the mezzanine watching him. I could tell by their faces if he was climbing, resting, or making a dicey move. Their mouths were big O's when he was climbing, talking when he was resting, or gripping the rail when it was a tough move. It was comical but helpful when I couldn't see him anymore. After eating, we went out to my research plots. He got to ride in my super duty F350 workhorse. I could haul a dump truck with that work truck if I needed to. Gosh, there is just something about a truck and corn fields that make me feel alive. Jason, you know what I'm talking about! Greadnad and Gma would be proud of their granddaughter for embracing her farmer-roots. When we were in my field, we found some cool disease including corn rust, corn smut, and maybe even anthracnose. Be patient, pictures are below. We met Alicia and Gabe for drinks later that night. Then soon our weekend together was over and I had to bring him back to the airport. Amazon is lucky I brought him back to the airport and didn't keep him in Raleigh!
SMUT!!
Other cool news is that I went bouldering at McAfee's Knob with David on Wednesday! I know this sounds dumb but the rock there is hard. Ask David; he is the one who mentioned it to me first. Plus, there are lots of crystals in the rock as well. My fingertips got a little tore up and all the dead skin was exfoliated as well. I learned the hard way not to wear shorts bouldering. Top-outs tended to scratch my legs and knees just a teensy bit. We started at the roadside boulder which is maybe 2 feet from the road. Mom, Dad, relax. We climbed on the other side of the boulder away from traffic. There was a sweet traverse problem where I learned a new method of topping out. This is also where I managed to bruise my knee pretty good and scrape up my legs. After a successful lesson in topping out, we hiked to the Mickey Mouse boulders. Unfortunately my elbow was acting up so I did another cool traverse two times and that was about it. The Mickey Mouse boulder had a stunning view from the top-out so we hung out a bit up there and enjoyed the scenery. As usual, I have no photo evidence that I was actually at McAfee's Knob. Although....David did make a video of me on my favorite climb of the day! Since I don't know the name of the climb, let's call it 'Megapocalypse' because it sounds cool.
Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are made of dirt.
Yup, so now it's the weekend. I've put in many hours in the lab and editing these papers. Now all I need to do is perfect my speech for Field Day and get on top of my game before semester starts. Hopefully I totally rock my interviews when I'm in Seattle as well. Cross your fingers for me. In 10 months I will be graduated, finished with my thesis (hopefully), and getting myself a full time job before that! Anyways, I should get back to lab and finish my stuff before it gets dark.
To plant a field / garden is to believe in tomorrow.

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Must. Touch. Rock.

Rain, rain please come back or my plants will die from the sun's attack! I am so sick of the meteorologists calling for rain (which keeps me from climbing outside) and then it's sunny without a cloud in the sky. Oh wait, the rain will come out of nowhere and pour for a few minutes. This isn't the kind of rain that takes away the humidity; it adds to it. LAME! But want to know something super cool? Aaron will be in Raleigh in just a few hours!! I never, ever want to go this long without seeing him again. it sucks.

Sooo... can y'all tell I'm a little cranky? I just want to get my hands on real rock again. THAT IS ALL I WANT MOTHER NATURE! STOP RAINING ON ME AND ROCKS SO I CAN GO CLIMBING AGAIN!!! Phew. That feels good to get that out! Since the weather has been a slight pain in the rump, I have been amping up my workouts in the gym. I have the sore muscles to prove it if you would like to verify.
Be like a tree even if it means standing alone.
Y'all want to know what really sucks? Hitting a climbing plateau and not seeing improvement. Ugh, I was walking on a plateau for awhile but not anymore! I can consistently on-site 5.10s (a few of them still trip me up). Improvement is amazing. I also learned that 5.11s aren't as scary as I thought - they are actually mighty fun. And I decided that I will skip the V2s. I will go to the V3 & V4s. I have been able to on-site a few threes and am projecting a few fours :)  So that makes me really happy. I can see my bouldering paying off when I'm sport climbing as well. Gosh climbing is the shit!

So besides wanting to get outside to climb, my life has been pretty boring. So...I'm going to list off a bunch of cool facts about trees and plants in general. Please do not excuse my brilliant knowledge of plants. We need plants just as much as they need us. Geek Mode: ON.

*27,000 trees are required to produce the amount of toilet paper the world consumes in a day. A DAY!! You don't need have a roll to wipe your hineys!!
*One tree can absorb as much carbon in a year as a car produces while driving 26,000 miles.

*The average life span of a tree in an urban/city area is only 8 years (HEARTBROKEN)

*Common English Oak (Quercus robur) can support 324 taxa of lichens living directly on the tree :)
*There are more than 80,000 species of edible plants.

* 90% of the foods that humans consume come from just 30 plants.
Put lots of colors of food on your plate! It's delicious!
*70,000 plant species are used for medicinal purposes.
*80% of Earth's natural forests have been cleared or destroyed (DEVASTATED).
I DON'T LIKE THIS ONE BIT!!
*68% of plants are in danger of going extinct (SUPER SAD TIMES).

Friday, July 11, 2014

I Moved.

My arms and shoulders hurt. But it's not from climbing. Sad times. If I have to lift one more heavy box full of my belongings, I'm going to drop it on my toe. Four car loads, a bike ride, locking myself out, pushing on a pull door, pinching a few fingers, and not fitting through the doorway, I have finally moved my stuff into my new apartment! But that does not mean anything is put away. I took the last two days off from research so I could unpack. Hah, yeah right. Mother Nature was conspiring against me I swear! Before you choose sides, listen to my side of the story.
Giant hueco at The New!! Lots of spider guys in there :(
"Big colorful hueco" If y'all haven't figured it out - I was at the New for the Fourth of July weekend with my friend David.
So I was at the New for climbing but I thought the basidiomycota were pretty sweet.

Whenever you're overwhelmed or things aren't going your way, look up into the sky. Know that beyond the walls of your house, the limits of your city, the state line, country borders, continents, atmosphere, or galaxy, there is another living being suffering too. The sky may look big an empty but try to see it as a window into another living being's soul/spirit/consciousness. After all, we are all made of the same stuff as trees, snails, humans, and other life forms; we just look different. So why should we think our suffering is worse than another's suffering? 
Did you know that smiling makes you happier? I want y'all to try something - I tried it this morning and it totally worked. Take a few moments and turn your awareness from the outside world and into your body. Feel which emotion is the strongest. Are you holding tension in your shoulders? Are your uncomfortable or have an knuckle you want to crack. Now that your awareness is inside yourself, smile. A genuine smile, not a fake or half smile. Like really smile. If you're with someone, smile at them. If you're by yourself, you can look in a mirror and smile. Did you notice a slight change in your happiness? Do you feel happier seeing someone else smile and did you smile bigger as a result?  Spread some happiness - all you have to do is smile! :D
The first day I was moving my stuff was 99 with a heat index of 111. I'm pretty sure the relative humidity was the same because I was breathing in water outside. I think I drank like 20 gallons of water and sweated 19. I blasted the air conditioning for the whole 2 mile drive between apartments. The second day was a torrential downpour. WHY? I'm already cranky from hauling my stuff around; what makes you think I want to take a shower with my clothes on and feel the heat from the blacktop like a sauna? I just wanted to move my stuff in peace! Hey Mom, does this ring a bell? Remember moving into the A-frame and Mother Nature thought we would have tons of fun moving our stuff during a thunderstorm? Apparently she remembered how much of a blast that was and didn't want me to forget.
So here's the shortened version of moving. Packed stuff into boxes. Placed in living room. Stubbed my toe on the bedframe. Took nails out of the wall. Tossed more stuff in boxes. Shoved boxes into car. Locked keys in car. Got back into car. Drove to new apartment. Heaved boxes from my car the front entry. Set it down. Open door. Pick it up and drop it in front of apartment door. Open door. Drag box inside. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat. You get it. Anyways, I didn't realize the entry door could be unlocked from the floor and stay open. For being a scientist, my investigation skills are poor. I had that ground breaking discovery on my VERY LAST trip from my car. Are you serious? Oh, and a bunch of strong, healthy human beings watched me lug boxes while they had a beer. Geez thanks for grabbing the door. Lesson learned - don't show off climbing muscles by wearing a tank top when you're moving. You will receive no help. Only the sweet, darling, Emma helped me carry a few loads from my car. 
I think they meant climbing gear!
As of now, I am waiting for my bed to be shipped to me. My camping gear is doing the trick. Thank goodness for the REI garage sale where I got a thermarest air sleeping pad thing for $5. I can actually roll out of bed, so that's pretty cool. I assembled a dresser, decided I liked something else better, dissembled it, brought it back, and assembled a new shelving unit. I had a few left over parts. As Dad always says, "You're not doing it right unless you have some extra parts at the end." Well, it seems to be standing and hasn't fallen apart yet so I ought to be good! I still need to get a desk or something along that nature. I also realized I don't have that much stuff (excluding my climbing and camping gear). I have a much smaller closet and I still don't fill it up!! Maybe that means I should go buy more climbing gear. Like a ball nut.


Anyways, I'm going to go for a run around the lake, bike around the lake, have some coffee and finish fixing my room up! Then, go climbing. Speaking of - TRC is opening their expansion tomorrow!! We had members only night last night so of course I went! 55 ft lead & top rope walls, a lead cave, a bouldering cave, mezzanine, slab wall, program wall, cardio and yoga - I'm in love. I on-sighted my first John Provetero 10 lead! I specify this route setter because our climbing styles differ greatly so I find his routes more challenging. I had a pure panic clip half way up. The hold to the left of the draw was good but the one on the right was not so good. Unfortunately my left wrist is still healing so I have to baby it a bit. So I had to have my right hand on the left hold and clip the rope with my left. I pulled up slack, bit the rope, hauled up more slack. During this time, my right hand is starting to slide off the hold so I drop the slack to save myself from falling. **I DIDNT HAVE CHALK EITHER. Super sad face.** So I got resituated and went for the clip again. My right hand is still sliding off the hold (sweaty palms are no good) as I pull up slack again. Here comes the extra panicy part: I fumble with the draw and can't get the rope in. I try again and bump my right arm which causes it to slide further off the hold. Just as my hand is about to slip off, I clip the rope and get my left hand on a hold. Thankfully I had solid feet so I was okay. I made this sound like it lasted minutes but it was only like 10 seconds.
EXPANSION MANSION
I just want to shout out a huge thank you to all the route setters at TRC who set some of the best routes yet at the expansion!! Rami, Scott Gilliam, Patrick, Tyler, Taylor, Andrew Schmidt, and John Provetero - you guys are awesome and I love climbing your routes. And of course, huge shout out to Skinny for being an all-around get-shit-done man. Everyone should go check the expansion out tomorrow! Oh, and Aaron, bring your harness when you come visit me :) 

Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Going Red

What is crack-a-lackin folks? My deepest, most sincere apologies for not keeping y'all up in my climbing adventures. My research project slammed me in the face recently and therefore more pressing matters had to be taken care of. In case you were wondering - which I know y'all were - climbing is was more fun than research. Shocking, I know.

Here's the short story of my research project. I had 150 pounds of corn. I autoclaved aforementioned corn twice. I inoculated this autoclaved corn with Aspergillus flavus. Then this corn was put in an incubator. I tested kernels for fungal growth & aflatoxin production. Infected corn was massed out and placed in bags. Bags of corn kernels made a journey to Rocky Mount, NC and were then poured on the plots. I also had to grow Fusarium strains. After some funky looking cultures, I managed to get beautiful spore producing cultures. Then I removed the spores from cultures. Transported to Rocky Mount and sprayed on plots. Field research is wicked cool. You can call me "Miss Farmer In Training / Wanna-be Dr. Heiniger Someday."
Phew! Glad we got that boring stuff out of the way. Now onto the joys of life: climbing and nature. Two weeks ago I met David, Lohan, and Joyce at The Red. I had never met Joyce or Lohan before but they were both really chill and fun to climb with. Unfortunately I could only stay two full days due to research but I still got two full days of climbing nonetheless!

The first day we went to the Chocolate Factory. I got on Glass Elevator (10d), Oompa (10a), Augustus Gloop (5), Squirrel Worker (maybe that's the name: 11??) and Chocolate River (9). Joyce took some photos that make me look pretty darn awesome. We were on slab routes right next to each other and it looks like I was just dancing up the wall. Which it kind of felt like - trusting this tiny little miniature toe placement and stretch your arms to the max and praise the gods and goddesses when that crimp is exactly what you need. Anyways, it was a lot of fun. Oh no! How could I forget to mention this? David, Joyce and Lohan got on Pure Imagination   MOM, DAD, KIDDO, AND OTHER FAMILY MEMBERS: PLEASE VIEW THE PHOTO BELOW AND UNDERSTAND THAT A 14.C IS JUST A WALK IN THE PARK. Oh, and since you don't know what the heck a 5.14c is, I will give a brief description. Imagine looking at a very beautiful cliff that looks very smooth (aka - blank/no holds). Now imagine climbing that and jamming your finger (yes, one finger) into a painful little crack, your other hand on a small side-pull crimp-ish like hold, and your toes aren't really on anything of substance. Oh, and the next hold you're going for is a "jug" in comparison. Hah - like that helped anything.   So, back to my story. Those three played around on the bottom section of Pure Imagination for awhile. I took photos that make them look like the professionals they really are :)  Just enjoy the pictures.
Lohan. I love how they both did a killer drop knee in the same spot
David.
The second day we went to Johnny's Wall, Tectonic Wall, and Bruise Brothers Wall. I managed to get on 10 climbs :)  It started off with warming up on Tall Cool One (5.9) which I would say is a 5.26 when there are terrifying deadly looking spiders on that climb. I have never overgripped or removed my hand so quickly from a hold before. Either way, I made it up to the top without any spider friends hitching a ride. Then I on-sighted Plate Tectonics (10a). Next was Thanks Holly (8) followed by 59" Drill Bitch (10a), Bethel (10a), and Spinner (10a). Those three were pretty sweet! I would climb those again for sure. After we finished up there we head to Bruise Brothers. I found two new projects as well. Critters on the Wall (10d - PROJECT), Rat Stew (10a), Workin' for the Weekend (10c - PROJECT), and last but not least: Return of the Manimal (10d).
This is just to show how overhung Pure Imagination really is.
Golden Ticket
Sad story. Return of the Manimal beat me up :(  I was doing just fine cleaning the route. I easily could have clipped the first 5 bolts (next time). I made some really cool big moves and was feeling good about life. Then I grabbed a side-pull undercling. Searing pain shot through my arm, I felt a weird vibration going on in the forearm and my left hand when completely numb. It was the most terrifying thing that has happened to me during climbing. I much rather take whipper after whipper than go through that again. I pulled the roof, made it to the anchors, and rappelled down to clean the draws. The numbness slowly went away during the night and I could feel again by morning. I've been babying it for a few days so it should be all good if I'm gentle on myself.
Everyone, this is Timmy. He hung out with us at the Chocolate Factory.

So yup. That's the story of my trip to the Red. I think I want to go back...or just live there. Rent would be a heck of a lot cheaper, wouldn't have roommates to deal with, could climb anytime I want to, explore the gorge on my rest days, be surrounded by nature, convince Aaron to come climb with me, and did I mention the cheaper rent? I need to stop, I'm convincing myself this is a great idea. Don't think I haven't toyed with the idea already because I have. Oh bugger, it's my bedtime. I got a nice early day of work and then finish moving into my new place. Why does it have to be 100 degrees when I move? This is stupid.
If only...